Glycolic acid. Hyaluronic acid. Ascorbic acid. Salicylic acid. Retinoic acid. So many acids! And barely even scratching the surface. While these all may be acids, they each work in very different ways to bring about changes in the skin. Some are excellent exfoliators, while others are powerful antioxidants, intense hydrators, or effective acne fighters.
I totally get it - it can be confusing and overwhelming! But I’m here to help make it as straight forward as possible, so I’ve created an alphabetized list of the most common skincare acids, what they do, and who they’re best for. So next time you’re roaming the skincare aisles or browsing skincare products online, I hope you can take a look at the acids present in the product to better understand how the product will impact your skin.
Ok - here we go!
ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C)
Derived From: fruits and vegetables
Ideal For: skin brightening and collagen stimulation
Key Features: neutralizes free radicals to protect skin from oxidative stress (AKA protects from sun damage and collagen breakdown)
Favorite Product: Vitamin C 20% Serum
AZELAIC ACID
Derived From: grains such as rye, wheat, and barley
Ideal For: rosacea/redness and acne
Key Features: anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties
Favorite Product: 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
CITRIC ACID
Derived From: citrus fruits
Ideal For: anti-aging, exfoliating, and skin brightening
Key Features: antioxidant, helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
FERULIC ACID
Derived From: seeds of apples and oranges
Ideal For: antioxidant protection against free radicals
Key Features: often used in conjunction with vitamin C and E for optimum antioxidant benefits
Favorite Product: CE Ferulic
GLYCOLIC ACID
Derived From: sugarcane
Ideal For: fine lines and wrinkles, exfoliation, hyperpigmentation, clogged pores, acne scarring, and ingrown hairs
Key Features: one of the most gentle, hydrating, and effective exfoliators, increases collagen production
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
HYALURONIC ACID
Derived From: plant fermentation
Ideal For: hydration and skin plumping
Key Features: holds 1,000 times it weight in water for increased skin hydration
Favorite Product: Hydrating Serum
KOJIC ACID
Derived From: fungi
Ideal For: skin lightening and melasma
Key Features: inhibits excess melanin production
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
LACTIC ACID
Derived From: beets
Ideal For: brightening and exfoliation for sensitive skin
Key Features: stimulates collagen and elastin production
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
MANDELIC ACID
Derived From: almonds
Ideal For: acne and hyperpigmentation
Key Features: improves skin texture and reduces signs of aging
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
PHYTIC ACID
Derived From: legumes
Ideal For: hyperpigmentation and PIH
Key Features: gentle, gradual exfoliation and skin brightening
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC
RETINOIC ACID
Derived From: dairy products
Ideal For: anti-aging, firming skin, fine lines and wrinkles
Key Features: increases collagen and elastin production, improves skin tone and texture, all retinoids are eventually converted into retinoic acid
Precautions: sun sensitivity, not to be used while pregnant
Favorite Product: RET+
SALICYLIC ACID
Derived From: bark of willow trees
Ideal For: acne, blackheads, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH/PIE)
Key Features: Reduces oil production, BHA
Precautions: Avoid if you have an allergy to aspirin
Favorite Product: Skin By Blair TONIC